I just shot a video of the current clocks on my test stand and I thought I'd share it on YouTube (since I have quite a few clockies on it), and with my Clockmaking Blog buddies (that's you guys!)
I will probably go over more details about the custom built clock test stand in the future, but here's a quick breakdown:
The main part of the stand is two rectangular frames that are glued together in each corner with a lap joint. The rest of the stand is simply two bottom legs (each made of two pieces glued together), and two upper braces. The entire thing is designed with the use of knock-down hex key bolts, and can be stored away fairly easily. The stand is also equipped with adjustable feet on the bottom. I made a set of 6 notched cleats that sit on the top, and can be used to hold seatboards or to support loose longcase type movements. In addition, movements that are back-mounted can be set up on boards (as in the case of the Vienna movement on the right) and clamped to the vertical rails.
At maximum capacity, you could probably have as much as 4 clocks on top, and up to two smaller movements per vertical rail, so 12 movements? I probably wouldn't ever need to set up that many at a time, though.
The main frames are 36" x 48" which is a decent size for general use. It could easily be made wider. The wood I used is unfinished White Ash that was barely milled from 4/4 stock (so the pieces are between 7/8" and 15/16" thick). Ash was used because it's an incredibly strong yet incredibly cheap hardwood. You could easily put about 300 Lbs on this stand with no issues.
Showing posts with label Laterndluhr. Show all posts
Showing posts with label Laterndluhr. Show all posts
Thursday, February 14, 2013
Tuesday, February 12, 2013
Custom Crank Key (Part 1)
A fine clock deserves a fine key. If you are finicky with details (as I am), and you don't mind spending a bit of time, you too can easily make your own beautiful custom keys.
Tools Needed:
- Inexpensive Stock Key
- Jeweller's Lathe
- Files
- Brass Sheet (old movement plates)
- Soldering Sundries
- Jeweller's Saw & Hacksaw
- Sanding and Polishing Sundries
For this project, I'm simply starting with a cheap stock key (which cost around 2$).
Start by determining the length for the shaft of your key. If it needs to be short, you can use a standard key, and if it needs to be longer, you can use and extra long shaft key (shown above).
Start by cutting the end off the key. If you want to save and reuse the key top, you can unpin it (with a small punch). Smooth/grind the tip flat.
At this point, you can chuck it into your lathe, and let your imagination soar. There are several antique examples with fine lines that will always look good. You can choose to simply do a simple double line across a plain shaft, or you can do something completely custom and unique.
While the shaft is still in the lathe, get a good polish on it.
For the arm, you can also do anything that suits your fancy. Several Vienna cranks feature a loose S curve on the arm, others are flat. Some are tapered, and others are simply steel wire.
On mine, I chose to do a double circle, with an ovoid stem. I simply grabbed a piece of brass from an old movement plate (coincidentally an off-cut from the Laterndluhr movement plates), and cut the rough design.
Unfortunately I didn't take any photos of the process. Nothing too exciting to see. The blank was rough-cut with a hack saw, and then bulk of the excess was ground-off with a bench grinder. All the finishing touches on the profile edges, and the ovoid stem were all done with hand files.
To attach the stem to the arm, I simply used regular silver-bearing (low-temp) solder. The crank will never have so much force applied to it that it should warrant the use of real silver soldering (brazing), which I could have done - as I have the supplies. Normal solder will hold a few thousand pounds of pressure, and the weight on this clock is 4 Lbs without factoring the pulley (which halves the weight to 2 Lbs).
The soldering does make a huge mess, and will discolour the brass, so another round of polishing and cleaning were done.
At this point, I have 2 photos so far.
I haven't decided what to choose for the handle yet. I'm leaning towards ebony, walnut, mahogany, or cherry, but bone, holly, or boxwood would also be nice.
Tools Needed:
- Inexpensive Stock Key
- Jeweller's Lathe
- Files
- Brass Sheet (old movement plates)
- Soldering Sundries
- Jeweller's Saw & Hacksaw
- Sanding and Polishing Sundries
For this project, I'm simply starting with a cheap stock key (which cost around 2$).
Start by determining the length for the shaft of your key. If it needs to be short, you can use a standard key, and if it needs to be longer, you can use and extra long shaft key (shown above).
Start by cutting the end off the key. If you want to save and reuse the key top, you can unpin it (with a small punch). Smooth/grind the tip flat.
At this point, you can chuck it into your lathe, and let your imagination soar. There are several antique examples with fine lines that will always look good. You can choose to simply do a simple double line across a plain shaft, or you can do something completely custom and unique.
While the shaft is still in the lathe, get a good polish on it.
For the arm, you can also do anything that suits your fancy. Several Vienna cranks feature a loose S curve on the arm, others are flat. Some are tapered, and others are simply steel wire.
On mine, I chose to do a double circle, with an ovoid stem. I simply grabbed a piece of brass from an old movement plate (coincidentally an off-cut from the Laterndluhr movement plates), and cut the rough design.
Unfortunately I didn't take any photos of the process. Nothing too exciting to see. The blank was rough-cut with a hack saw, and then bulk of the excess was ground-off with a bench grinder. All the finishing touches on the profile edges, and the ovoid stem were all done with hand files.
To attach the stem to the arm, I simply used regular silver-bearing (low-temp) solder. The crank will never have so much force applied to it that it should warrant the use of real silver soldering (brazing), which I could have done - as I have the supplies. Normal solder will hold a few thousand pounds of pressure, and the weight on this clock is 4 Lbs without factoring the pulley (which halves the weight to 2 Lbs).
The soldering does make a huge mess, and will discolour the brass, so another round of polishing and cleaning were done.
At this point, I have 2 photos so far.
I haven't decided what to choose for the handle yet. I'm leaning towards ebony, walnut, mahogany, or cherry, but bone, holly, or boxwood would also be nice.
Beat Adjuster Project (Part 1)
I have been working on some parts for the Laterndluhr project over the past week. One of them was the beat plate from the previous post, another is a custom crank key (next post), and the third is this custom beat adjuster.
If you are a fan of high quality Vienna Regulators, you might be familiar with these gizmos, but if you aren't, allow me to explain.
Many of the early Biedermeier Viennas were high quality instruments reserved for the more wealthy. Because of this, they tended to be more "fragile", finicky, and temperamental. This isn't to say they weren't good clocks. Quite the opposite. They are excellent clocks, but they had to be carefully set-up, and adjusted. To make such adjustments easier, many different inventions and improvements were designed, and one of them is the beat adjuster (I'll abbreviate this to B-A for the remainder of the post).
The B-A is a simple, yet frequently highly decorative item that allows you to shift the position of the crutch left or right. If you were to set up your clock nice and level on a wall, but it was out of beat, you could simply use the B-A to set the beat to the clock's current position. The mechanism also allows you to make very fine adjustments which would otherwise be very difficult if you were simply trying to bend the crutch manually (as in the case of a typical longcase clock).
I've collected several fine and ornate examples of these devices, and I put together this small collage for you. You will note that some examples have the horizontal screw visible on the front, while others on on the reverse. It would appear that this was either done by preference, or because of tight clearance issues found in many such clocks. You will also note that not all were ornate. The second photo shows a fairly plain example, but there are even more basic designs.
Currently, I'm not exactly sure about the finished dimensions that I want on my version, so I started with a rough working model (in cardboard). This might be the final design, or I might do 3 or 4 others before I decide. This one was drawn freehand (left side), and then mirrored. It's loosely based on the ones above, with some variations.
The design was cut with an Exacto.
Spray painted with a quick coat of gold.
And temporarily mounted with blue poster tack.
Note that the wooden seatboard will likely be replaced with a thin brass one, so more of the design will be visible. Once I decide on the size and shape, I'll start making the brass version.
More soon!
If you are a fan of high quality Vienna Regulators, you might be familiar with these gizmos, but if you aren't, allow me to explain.
Many of the early Biedermeier Viennas were high quality instruments reserved for the more wealthy. Because of this, they tended to be more "fragile", finicky, and temperamental. This isn't to say they weren't good clocks. Quite the opposite. They are excellent clocks, but they had to be carefully set-up, and adjusted. To make such adjustments easier, many different inventions and improvements were designed, and one of them is the beat adjuster (I'll abbreviate this to B-A for the remainder of the post).
The B-A is a simple, yet frequently highly decorative item that allows you to shift the position of the crutch left or right. If you were to set up your clock nice and level on a wall, but it was out of beat, you could simply use the B-A to set the beat to the clock's current position. The mechanism also allows you to make very fine adjustments which would otherwise be very difficult if you were simply trying to bend the crutch manually (as in the case of a typical longcase clock).
I've collected several fine and ornate examples of these devices, and I put together this small collage for you. You will note that some examples have the horizontal screw visible on the front, while others on on the reverse. It would appear that this was either done by preference, or because of tight clearance issues found in many such clocks. You will also note that not all were ornate. The second photo shows a fairly plain example, but there are even more basic designs.
Currently, I'm not exactly sure about the finished dimensions that I want on my version, so I started with a rough working model (in cardboard). This might be the final design, or I might do 3 or 4 others before I decide. This one was drawn freehand (left side), and then mirrored. It's loosely based on the ones above, with some variations.
The design was cut with an Exacto.
Spray painted with a quick coat of gold.
And temporarily mounted with blue poster tack.
Note that the wooden seatboard will likely be replaced with a thin brass one, so more of the design will be visible. Once I decide on the size and shape, I'll start making the brass version.
More soon!
Monday, February 4, 2013
Future Projects
Alright, I haven't had any news about the longcase clock yet, so I thought I'd post a few photos of some upcoming future projects.
Those of you who have been following my clockmaking projects from the past may remember that I've wanted to build a Laterndluhr* reproduction for several years. I started the project by modifying a cheap mass-produced cable driven "Hermle" style longcase movement from a 3-train triple chime (which was missing parts) into a time only movement.
This movement was cut-down into a rectangular form, had the corner posts moved, and I rebuilt a new pendulum crutch. The movement was also fitted with an eBay-found dial sub-plate and brass bezel, and it will eventually have a nice dial for it (either a better version of the current one, or an etched silver one). The current dial is a paper dial that I edited and cut to fit (with the help of my Dad). The dial is 8" overall, and the hands are modified "Seth Thomas Fashion" hands (which are often found on the Seth Thomas "Fashion" calendar clocks).
The weight (4lbs - yes, that's correct, without the pulley the 8 day movement runs reliably on only 2Lbs) is an inexpensive reproduction, and I'd like to make a new cap for it with a knurled edge, but I don't have a knurling tool. The pulley is also an inexpensive repro.
The pendulum is about 45" long (from suspension post to the base of the bob), and I'm using a 6 1/2" old-stock bob (the type that are made with a solid brass spun sheet on the front, rather than the newer ones which are only brass plated).
*If you're wondering about the pronunciation of Laterndluhr, as far as I can tell, the correct one is: Lat-turn-dul-er. This is a German word for an early style of Vienna wall clock in a "lantern" type case (with many glass panels around it). It is a combination of the German words for Lantern and Clock.
Another project that is going to be on the list, is my Massachusetts Shelf Clock. A while ago, I custom built (from a kit) a high quality Lenderman banjo clock movement, and I made several modifications to it: making it a rear-mounted pendulum version with a falling strike. I plan to build a mahogany veneered reproduction case for it, but I haven't decided on what design I want to do yet. I have several ideas for it, but I just can't decide. The movement is fully functional, reliable, and beautiful, and I'm eager to get started on a case.
A third project that is nearly ready to case, is this lovely longcase clock movement. It is a good quality orphaned (unsigned) longcase clock movement. It had a few minor pieces missing, such as a rack spring, pendulum crutch, I think the back bridge/pendulum support was also missing. Several teeth needed to be re-repaired, and the centre shaft needed a silver solder repair to replace the broken tip, etc.
The most fun part of this project was building a new dial. I started with only an antique hand-engraved chapter ring, and a sheet of brass. The centre of the dial was matted by hand, the spandrels were inexpensive cast reproductions (which were hand filed to maximize the details, and I may also want to have them gilded), and I custom made the seconds dial, which will be galvanically etched to match the exterior dial numerals.
The hands are temporary paper ones, but I like these (I have a few different styles that fit the style that I want) and they are likely going to be the ones I choose, when I decide to hand-cut and file them from, 1/16" steel.
The chapter ring and seconds dial will eventually be silvered, and I also need to fit a pendulum, drill the hole in the centre shaft (for the minute hand retaining pin), etc. I also don't have proper weights for this movement yet.
I also have several other fine movements that I can case, such as another chain driven longcase movement, a few French movements, early American movements, etc.
Those of you who have been following my clockmaking projects from the past may remember that I've wanted to build a Laterndluhr* reproduction for several years. I started the project by modifying a cheap mass-produced cable driven "Hermle" style longcase movement from a 3-train triple chime (which was missing parts) into a time only movement.
This movement was cut-down into a rectangular form, had the corner posts moved, and I rebuilt a new pendulum crutch. The movement was also fitted with an eBay-found dial sub-plate and brass bezel, and it will eventually have a nice dial for it (either a better version of the current one, or an etched silver one). The current dial is a paper dial that I edited and cut to fit (with the help of my Dad). The dial is 8" overall, and the hands are modified "Seth Thomas Fashion" hands (which are often found on the Seth Thomas "Fashion" calendar clocks).
The weight (4lbs - yes, that's correct, without the pulley the 8 day movement runs reliably on only 2Lbs) is an inexpensive reproduction, and I'd like to make a new cap for it with a knurled edge, but I don't have a knurling tool. The pulley is also an inexpensive repro.
The pendulum is about 45" long (from suspension post to the base of the bob), and I'm using a 6 1/2" old-stock bob (the type that are made with a solid brass spun sheet on the front, rather than the newer ones which are only brass plated).
*If you're wondering about the pronunciation of Laterndluhr, as far as I can tell, the correct one is: Lat-turn-dul-er. This is a German word for an early style of Vienna wall clock in a "lantern" type case (with many glass panels around it). It is a combination of the German words for Lantern and Clock.
Another project that is going to be on the list, is my Massachusetts Shelf Clock. A while ago, I custom built (from a kit) a high quality Lenderman banjo clock movement, and I made several modifications to it: making it a rear-mounted pendulum version with a falling strike. I plan to build a mahogany veneered reproduction case for it, but I haven't decided on what design I want to do yet. I have several ideas for it, but I just can't decide. The movement is fully functional, reliable, and beautiful, and I'm eager to get started on a case.
A third project that is nearly ready to case, is this lovely longcase clock movement. It is a good quality orphaned (unsigned) longcase clock movement. It had a few minor pieces missing, such as a rack spring, pendulum crutch, I think the back bridge/pendulum support was also missing. Several teeth needed to be re-repaired, and the centre shaft needed a silver solder repair to replace the broken tip, etc.
The most fun part of this project was building a new dial. I started with only an antique hand-engraved chapter ring, and a sheet of brass. The centre of the dial was matted by hand, the spandrels were inexpensive cast reproductions (which were hand filed to maximize the details, and I may also want to have them gilded), and I custom made the seconds dial, which will be galvanically etched to match the exterior dial numerals.
The hands are temporary paper ones, but I like these (I have a few different styles that fit the style that I want) and they are likely going to be the ones I choose, when I decide to hand-cut and file them from, 1/16" steel.
The chapter ring and seconds dial will eventually be silvered, and I also need to fit a pendulum, drill the hole in the centre shaft (for the minute hand retaining pin), etc. I also don't have proper weights for this movement yet.
I also have several other fine movements that I can case, such as another chain driven longcase movement, a few French movements, early American movements, etc.
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