Showing posts with label Case. Show all posts
Showing posts with label Case. Show all posts

Tuesday, January 9, 2018

Ogee Clocks - Rare and Unusual Models & Types

When it comes to ogee clocks, a lot of collectors will picture something like this:



A one day rectangular clock in a sort of picture frame style case, with a dial and a decorative glass. This Alden Atkins clock is a particularly nice early example, with a painted wood dial, and a William Fenn type stenciled glass, in a mahogany veneered case. One immediate (and related) variation was the so-called "bevel case" clock. Essentially this is the poor man's ogee clock, built with flat stock. The case design is nearly identical to the standard ogee, but it lacks the distinct "s curved" ogee mouldings that give the clock its name.



The clock shown above is a lovely bevel case by Boardman & Wells. It is an early 1840s example with a Fenn glass, and a painted wooden dial. This clock, however, uses a wooden works movement. Several manufacturers appear to have adopted the new case style (or close to it) to generate sales, but continued to fit them with wooden works movements. By the 1840s, wooden works movements were quickly beginning to become obsolete, in favour of inexpensive brass movements based on Noble Jerome's June 27, 1839 patent.

Ogee clocks were incredibly popular from about 1840 all the way up to the early 1900s. Not many other clock case styles stayed popular for as long as the ogee. A 1904 catalogue from the St. Louis Clock and Silverware Company still had ogee clocks listed for sale in polished rosewood or walnut veneer, and available in 1 day and 8 day, with or without alarms installed. By about 1910, however, they started to disappear from most catalogues. During this nearly 70 years, the basic design was largely the same. The most apparent changes were applied to the production and materials used on the dials and tablets. Despite the overall case remaining the same, there were still quite a few makers who put their own interesting touches on the basic ogee case, and created some very unique clocks. This blog entry will help showcase some of these examples.

Note: Images in this post are collected from various sources. These are not clocks that I own.

GOLD TRIM:

Starting off small, one detail that was added to some ogee clock cases was the addition of a gold moulding.



This one is by the Ansonia Clock Co, but I know that Waterbury also offered them with gold bands. It's a small detail, but it makes for quite a difference in appearance.

PAINTED DIAL GLASS:

A feature that is often found on early Jerome ogees is that the upper dial glass was reverse painted with spandrel decorations. These often have brass dials with black numerals, but white dials as well as zinc dials are also found.



While this dial decoration doesn't deviate very much from a standard ogee clock, it's a nice early feature, and only appears on examples prior to around 1845. I suspect that the dial on this example is a modern replacement. They are usually zinc or brass with a circular centre opening.

RARE MOVEMENTS:

One type of a rare movement can be found in this Forestville clock. In order to avoid patent infringement, Forestville made a version of the Jerome 30 hour movements with the winding squares above the dial centre. These are generally called "upside down" movements.



This particular clock is rare for a combination of reasons: It is a two-tone case with bird's eye maple and mahogany, it uses a rare upside down movement, and it has its original dial, hands, and tablet.

Upside down movements are not the only rare movements that can be found in ogee clocks. There are 8 day time only examples, balance wheel examples, 3-train examples with weight driven alarms (in both 30 hour and 8 day movements), as well as a number of other experimental and unusual movements. All make good additions to clock collections.

Here is a collage that illustrates a selection of weight driven ogee movements (some quite rare, some common), but there are many more than just these:



8 DAY OGEES:

One of the main pitfalls of ogee clocks (and one of the reasons that some collectors avoid them) is that they require daily winding. However, there are a large selection of 8 day examples that can be found. These generally have larger clock cases, and require much heavier 8 day weights to drive them. Regular ogee clock cases generally measure about 26" in height, and 15.5" in width, while 8 day ogee cases tend to be closer to 29" in height, and 17" in width. 30 hour ogees tend to use weights from 3-4lbs each, while 8 day ogees use weights between 7-9lbs each.



Above is a lovely 8 day ogee clock by Forestville, dating to around the mid 1840s. It features a painted wood dial and a Fenn stenciled glass. Additionally, this Forestville has the "acorn" pattern 8 day movement. Several 8 day ogee clocks feature lyre or "fancy" shaped movements. Plainer clocks simply had movements with rectangular plates. See the collage above for some examples.

SPECIAL DOORS:

Another variation that can be found on ogee clock cases is in the way the doors were constructed, or in the way that hardware was fitted. Most doors use small brass hinges (often nailed in place), while a few used swivel type hinges, which were also nailed in place, but diagonally through the door frame and case moulding like a spike. Wooden knobs are less common than cast zinc or brass, and they are generally found on older clocks (before 1850). Simple latches can often be found made from bent brass wire, while others are cast brass in the shape of keys.

Some makers used two knobs on their taller models. One such maker is Birge & Mallory:



Presumably the two knobs helped the door stay flat and firmly closed (avoiding potential warping issues that are sometimes found on larger doors), but it does look a bit odd. Aside from this small quirk, the clock is just a standard large ogee case with an 8 day strap brass movement. The original painted glass is missing in this example.

Another door variation involves the use of two separate doors, as on this example:



Although many 8 day ogee clocks were built with double doors, they were not made for very a very long time. We can assume that it cost more time and money to build them this way, without creating much impact on the overall design. They require building two different sized doors, with twice the hardware (hinges and knobs) as well as the addition of building and fitting a centre dividing bar on the case. This centre bar also makes it more difficult to install and remove the movement because the strike-advance lever and the hammer both block the movement from sliding forward. This particular clock is by Jerome and Co., and features a lovely rosewood veneered case with an original tablet. Approximately 1870s.

One similar idea that was easier to execute was to have a single long door with 3 divisions. Generally these 3-section doors are extremely rare, and I have only come across a small handful of examples, but they are nevertheless interesting.



This clock is also a Chauncey Jerome product. It is an 8 day example, and while a lot of 3-section doors (on other clocks, by other makers) often feature one panel as a mirror, the two examples I have seen by Jerome both use two painted tablets in the door, with the smaller one being a fairly plain stenciled design.

"SUITCASE" CLOCKS:

This type of ogee is sometimes referred to as a "suitcase" clock, because of the way the door is built. In these clocks, the entire front of the case forms the door, and it is hinged on the side of the case, opening as the name suggests: like a suitcase. This is quite similar to how early 1830s groaner clock cases and New Hampshire mirror clock cases are built. Not many of these suitcase clocks were made, and they are quite desirable.



This clock is by Chauncey Boardman, and it is GIANT at 39" tall. I believe this is an 8 day wooden works with built-in alarm, but I'm not 100% certain.

There are also a few ogee clocks where the ogee moulding is built as part of the door, and it opens within the exterior front banding. These often have a keyed lock with a diamond escutcheon near the outer edge of the ogee moulding. Not many of these exist either, and they tend to date to the early 1840s.

CALENDAR MODELS:

Calendars started to be quite popular towards the 1870s and all sorts of different setups and configurations were added to clocks. A lot of calendars tend to be more frequently found on schoolhouse type wall clocks, store regulators, or even gingerbread clocks, but a few were custom made for ogee clocks. One of these was "Seem's Calendar Dial" Patented in Jan 7, 1868.



This calendar layout is not quite as elegant as a simple centre date hand (those models exist on ogee clocks as well), but it does indicate more than just the date. You get the date, the day of the week, and the month. This one is a Seth Thomas, in a mahogany veneered case, presumably from the late 1860s to early 1870s.

A much more elegant version can be found in this elaborate double dial example:



This one is by the National Calendar Clock Co. The black and gold dials are especially striking, and not many of these clocks were made in this particular case. Several in fancier cases exist, often with columns and a crown moulding, but much fewer in this simple ogee case.

GESSO FRONT:

Gesso front ogees are perhaps some of the most unusual of all the ogee variations. They were not manufactured in great numbers, and very few of them are identical. They are all normally in 30 hour ogee cases (I don't know of any 8 day versions), and the actual applied gesso decorations tend to vary.



As you can imagine, these are fairly fragile. They are built much the same way as a traditional ogee case, but with gesso and gilding applied to the front mouldings, the same as with traditional picture frames. This example is by Smith & Brothers, and it is fitted with a 30 hour wooden works movement. Early 1840s. It should be noted that most of these will feature mahogany banding combined with the gilt gesso. They would have been extremely showy when new (bright gold, along with shiny gold on the dial corners.

DOUBLE OGEE:

Another very interesting variation is the "double" ogee. This is a clock case style that I believe was only ever offered by the Forestville Clock Co.



Because of the widths of the ogee mouldings, these always make rather large cases and are therefore fitted with 8 day brass movements (I don't know of any 30 hour versions). It's sort of an interesting idea, but at the same time, the overall effect is just a bit "off". These clocks are not nearly as rare as some of the others in this post, so if you happen to come across one, it's worth checking out.

IVES:

Joseph Ives came up with this extraordinary case design and movement that is rather hard to describe. Generally I call these an "internal column ogee" but even that isn't a great name or description.



These clocks were offered by several retailers and companies, which include Joseph Ives, Hills & Goodrich, J.J. Beals (NY), etc. They feature a unique movement, housed within a tin shell, and they also require special lozenge shaped 8 day weights. Around the movement are two gilded and ring-decorated columns, and acanthus foliage over a blue background. All this within an ogee case with a painted tablet. These clocks are highly prized by collectors.

MINIATURES:

Lastly, we have miniatures. While these are slightly different (because the majority of them use spring-driven movements), some still use weight driven movements.



Here is a beautiful rosewood miniature ogee by F. C. Andrews. This one is not only rare because it's a weight driven miniature, but it is also a 3-train example with a weight driven alarm. This clock case also uses the alternative "swivel hinges" on the door that I referenced earlier.

Another reason to look at miniature ogees is that a fair number of them use rare and unusual spring driven movements such as fusee and false fusee movements. They can also frequently be found with 8 day movements, and/or alarms installed.



This miniature by Smith & Goodrich has a lovely 30 hour fusee movement (with alarm), a beautiful early Fenn tablet, thin numeral zinc dial, in a plain mahogany case.

It should be noted that generally, ogee clocks shorter than 24" can be considered miniature, and there is no standard size for these clocks. The weight driven examples tend to be a bit larger than spring driven examples, but sizes vary widely. I currently own 4 miniature ogee clocks, and they vary between 17.5" and 19" tall. No two are the same dimensions. Additionally the widths of the bandings and the widths of the ogee mouldings also vary between companies.

I hope you have enjoyed this foray into the world of ogee clocks, and that the next time you see a pile of them at a clock show, or in the back of a barn, or in an antiques shop, you'll take another look at them on the off chance that something special might be hiding there.

Tuesday, September 5, 2017

11 Clocks Update

Some of you may be wondering what has been going on with the new acquisitions. Well, so far I have done many of the case repairs on the bulk of them, but none are completed yet. Here's a quick summary of what's done and not done on the clocks I've started to restore.

8 Day Sperry Ogee:
- Veneer repairs done
- Case corners reglued
- Dust covers stained and ready to use
- Loose label fragments reglued
- Gong screws antiqued and reinstalled
- Piece of brown paper tape on backboard darkened to match (I didn't want to remove it but I wanted to hide it)
- Additional dial holes and movement mounting block holes patched

Still to do:
- Shellac touch-ups/wax polish
- Find and fit a wood dial (or make and paint one)
- Clean and repair the movement
- Make a minute hand to match the hour hand
- Fit missing parts (weight lines, hooks, weights, bob, etc)
- Painted stenciled glass


8 Day New Haven 2 Door Ogee:
- Veneer repairs to case
- Centre bar rebuilt, veneered, and installed
- Case corners reglued/repaired
- Bottom of case flattened and stained
- Extra dial holes filled
- Pulley repair

Still to do:
- Repair the doors (reglue, square-up, veneer patches, reinstall hinges properly, etc)
- Fit dust covers
- Shellac touch-ups/wax polish
- Find/fit a correct movement, dial, weights, hands, etc
- Painted tablet


Sperry & Shaw 8 Day Column Clock:
- Case repairs
- Veneer repairs

Still to do:
- Shellac touch-ups/wax polish
- Clean and repair movement
- Fit dust covers


E. W. Adams Wooden Works:
- Case repairs (reglue/clamp several pieces)
- Veneer repairs

Still to do:
- Shellac touch-ups/wax polish
- Fit dust covers
- Find/install movement, dial, and parts (this is still largely an empty case)


Jerome & Co. Column & Cornice Clock:
- Veneer repairs

Still to do:
- Shellac finish entire case/wax polish
- Clean and repair movement
- Fit dust covers
- Painted glasses
- Fit hands


C. & L. C. Ives Triple Decker:
- Veneer repairs & case touch-ups
- Cut and fit ivory escutcheon to lower door
- Tint lower door darker
- Cut, veneer, and fit top returns and glue blocks
- Chipped column repair
- Fit hands

Still to do:
- Fit mirror or tablet in centre
- Fit dust covers
- Shellac touch-ups/wax polish
- Clean and repair movement
- Cut, fit, and install rear crest stiffener strips
- Cut and install new (old) dial glass


Wadsworth Pillar & Scroll:
- Patterns cut and prepared (top scroll, base, side returns, etc scaled on the PC from an original)
- Front damaged veneer band pieces removed (wire nails removed) and reglued

Still to do:
A lot. I only just started this one.

Sunday, June 11, 2017

Waterbury Miniature Ogee Clock - Part 1

I have had this clock for long enough that I seem to have lost the paper work for it. I bought it as an empty case. Actually I just checked a purchase list, and I bought it in summer 2006! At the time I wanted a miniature ogee clock, and I believe I may have had a spare Waterbury shelf clock movement for it. I had only paid 34$ USD for the case, plus shipping. Not such a great bargain based on today's prices, but mini ogees back then would normally sell for 200-300$ USD.

Anyhow, the case had lots of loose or flaked-off veneer, and it needed work.

A few years ago (early 2015), while I was working on a whole bunch of different veneering repairs (http://jcclocks.blogspot.ca/2015/02/veneer-patching-extravaganza.html) I had glued down the loose sections of the veneer for this case.





Then a few weeks ago I finished the rest of the repairs. This involved gluing another big section that popped off on the door, and patching the missing sections on the veneer. Before I start showing the patches, this is how the clock looked after the 2015 repairs.



The edge uses curved veneer, so I used some of my pre-curved mahogany veneer stock for the patches. Any of the small chips, I did not use wood, I used putty. This is especially good for small chips along the bottom where the veneer is already really dark.



Putty-filled repairs:



Veneer patch on the corner, putty on the chips.



Again, a mix of veneer and putty. Keep in mind that any putty repairs must be touched-up with paint.



Top left corner:



Top right corner:



All the repairs and patches before stain, paint, and touch-ups.



Stain is applied first. Depending what stains you use, how much sanding you did, and what wood was used, the colour may be too light or too dark. It's kind of difficult to predict how certain spots will turn out. For the painted putty areas, those mainly work best on very dark finishes. This case is quite dark brown, so it's pretty forgiving to mix any "close enough" shade of blackish-brownish-reddish paint, and blend that in. I use one or two small paint brushes, but a lot of it is creative finger painting. Water is used to add transparency.



Bottom chips after painting. There are 4 decent sized chips, and a veneer patch in the left corner.



All the repairs and patches were then coated in several layers of orange shellac. The entire case was then buffed down with #0000 steel wool lubricated in dark paste wax. The wax is left to dry and go dull before polishing.

This shows the wax-buffed case just before polishing (so looking quite dull overall).



Here's just a small bit once you start buffing the wax.



Hopefully I can photograph the finished case soon.

Rosewood Seth Thomas (Thomaston) Ogee Clock - Part 3

I have yet to finish this series (as well as a few others). This is part 3, which covers some of the final details of the restoration.

Part 1: http://jcclocks.blogspot.ca/2016/02/rosewood-seth-thomas-thomaston-ogee.html
Part 2: http://jcclocks.blogspot.ca/2017/04/rosewood-seth-thomas-thomaston-ogee.html

In this part, I tacked an extremely unusual problem. For whatever reason, this ogee clock was NOT BUILT CORRECTLY. When I was finished working on the movement, I had trouble fitting it into the case properly, especially with respects to the dial. The hands would not clear the dial. This is a paper thin zinc sheet dial with a raised ring (which is standard on ALL older Seth Thomas clocks). The hands would not clear even in the centre (flat) portion of the dial.

I decided to take out the runners and set up the movement clearances correctly outside of the case.



In normal cases, the winding squares should be just a hair below the dial surface.

Playing around with tongue depressors (or popsickle sticks) I found that the movement would need to be raised at least 1/4 inch. HOWEVER, with the movement moved forward this far, the hand shaft would hit the glass, and you wouldn't be able to close the door.



Curiously, the seatboard had already been partially shimmed on the back side.



The real problem, however, was that the depth of the rails was wrong. I could see that the dial mounting tabs had actually gouged into the back of the door (the door was closing tightly onto the pins), because they were too far forward. Normally these rails are about 2 1/4" to 2 3/8" deep. These were almost 2 5/8". Nearly 3/8" too deep.





So the solution was simple. Trim the side rails (on the back) and reinstall them. I did not cut them down the full 3/8". I trimmed them only by how much I needed to shim-up the movement (the amount of popsickle sticks), so about 1/4 inch.

Once that was done, everything went back together just fine (I used old and new square nails), and the dial and movement fit perfectly, with proper clearance for the hands, and perfect clearance for the door (the door is no longer rubbing up onto the dial or pins).



I still need to post multiple photos of a half dozen restored or repainted dials. This was the fully repainted dial (before antiquing).



After antiquing:



Another case repair that I needed to do was to repair the worn out hole for the movement hold-down. The chip-out was puttied, and the area was colour-matched to hide the repair.



Hole patch from the interior. I used poplar for the plug since it will last a bit longer than pine (which is softer).





The final part will just be final photos and before and afters of the clock. Not too sure when I'll post those, but you can see most of the completed clock in Part 2.

Sunday, April 30, 2017

Highly Unusual Vienna Clock - Part 2

As you may have noticed in Part 1, the clock was in somewhat shabby condition, with a large chunk of the crown broken off (and missing) in the top left, as well as some breaks to the bottom bracket and a few veneer issues.



Other missing pieces include all the finials (x5) and two top corner blocks (there were square shadows to each side of the centre crest).

The hardest part to replicate was the upper crown moulding piece, but I was able to get a close-enough shape with a few passes of a cove router bit and some saw cuts. The rest was careful sanding. For the bottom moulding, I chose to replace it with a single rectangular piece, rather than rebuild it in 3 sections like it was.



The veneer on the bottom bracket had some damage to both sides. Sadly my camera has been having a hard time lately (it needs to be replaced), so I did not get many good photos of the repairs. This was the worst side. Most of the back edge was badly chipped, so I replaced a full strip. This was difficult to cut and glue. I had to pre-bend the veneer around two forms to shape it into an "S" before I could glue it. The large chip at the top was just puttied. A veneer repair there would have been difficult and unsightly. It was either putty, or remove another inch-wide strip of veneer down the length of the bracket. This is so low on the clock that the repair isn't that visible.





This was followed by a bit more sanding, some dark stain, and a bit of diluted paint to blend the harsh line. I used orange shellac to varnish the area and blend it into the rest of the original shellac. None of the photos turned out so I may try to take new ones later.

After more touch-ups, small chip repairs, a bit of black paint and shellac, this is the finished case:





The clock still has the original old wavy glass with several imperfections.



The clock originally had wall stabilizers, but they were missing, so I installed a sew set. The finials are still being planned/chosen and they'll be shown in Part 3 once they're installed.







For the two little top blocks, I had to make an educated guess as to what they should look like. As I mentioned earlier, there were two square shadows, and a faint circle outline in the centre of the squares indicating finials. I made the blocks from pine and veneered them in some salvaged antique walnut veneer. The ebonized tops were made to match the bottom bracket detail.





You can sort of see the typical German/Vienna case construction detail of the "lock joint" at each corner of the main box.



All it needs now are the finials.