11 Clocks Update

Some of you may be wondering what has been going on with the new acquisitions. Well, so far I have done many of the case repairs on the bulk of them, but none are completed yet. Here's a quick summary of what's done and not done on the clocks I've started to restore.

8 Day Sperry Ogee:
- Veneer repairs done
- Case corners reglued
- Dust covers stained and ready to use
- Loose label fragments reglued
- Gong screws antiqued and reinstalled
- Piece of brown paper tape on backboard darkened to match (I didn't want to remove it but I wanted to hide it)
- Additional dial holes and movement mounting block holes patched

Still to do:
- Shellac touch-ups/wax polish
- Find and fit a wood dial (or make and paint one)
- Clean and repair the movement
- Make a minute hand to match the hour hand
- Fit missing parts (weight lines, hooks, weights, bob, etc)
- Painted stenciled glass


8 Day New Haven 2 Door Ogee:
- Veneer repairs to case
- Centre bar rebuilt, veneered, and installed
- Case corners reglued/repaired
- Bottom of case flattened and stained
- Extra dial holes filled
- Pulley repair

Still to do:
- Repair the doors (reglue, square-up, veneer patches, reinstall hinges properly, etc)
- Fit dust covers
- Shellac touch-ups/wax polish
- Find/fit a correct movement, dial, weights, hands, etc
- Painted tablet


Sperry & Shaw 8 Day Column Clock:
- Case repairs
- Veneer repairs

Still to do:
- Shellac touch-ups/wax polish
- Clean and repair movement
- Fit dust covers


E. W. Adams Wooden Works:
- Case repairs (reglue/clamp several pieces)
- Veneer repairs

Still to do:
- Shellac touch-ups/wax polish
- Fit dust covers
- Find/install movement, dial, and parts (this is still largely an empty case)


Jerome & Co. Column & Cornice Clock:
- Veneer repairs

Still to do:
- Shellac finish entire case/wax polish
- Clean and repair movement
- Fit dust covers
- Painted glasses
- Fit hands


C. & L. C. Ives Triple Decker:
- Veneer repairs & case touch-ups
- Cut and fit ivory escutcheon to lower door
- Tint lower door darker
- Cut, veneer, and fit top returns and glue blocks
- Chipped column repair
- Fit hands

Still to do:
- Fit mirror or tablet in centre
- Fit dust covers
- Shellac touch-ups/wax polish
- Clean and repair movement
- Cut, fit, and install rear crest stiffener strips
- Cut and install new (old) dial glass


Wadsworth Pillar & Scroll:
- Patterns cut and prepared (top scroll, base, side returns, etc scaled on the PC from an original)
- Front damaged veneer band pieces removed (wire nails removed) and reglued

Still to do:
A lot. I only just started this one.

Cast Iron Weight Repair - Ogee Weights

Here is a quick and easy repair job I did on two ogee clock weights. I bought this mismatched pair of weights this past weekend from an antiques place (for the bargain price of 5$ for the pair). Unfortunately, both weights had their top loops broken, basically making them useless. Fortunately I was able to add loops back onto them.

There are several ways that broken loops or weight hooks can be repaired. Some methods are better than others. Some methods are ugly, but functional, while some are downright risky. I have used a few different methods to attach loops to cast iron weights in the past. I believe I've done one with a tapped and threaded hole, which was fine, but left a rather large eye bolt for the loop (which wasn't the nicest looking). I have seen weights with large loops of bailing wire wrapped around them, and also some hooks held with poor solder joints (risky) and adhesives like epoxy (which can work well if the holes are cleanly drilled (free of oils) and if the proper epoxy is used.

This new repair (which I decided to try) used a tight friction fit only. These are pretty light weights (under 4lbs).

The new loops were made from old rusty wire to match the old rusty cast iron, and these are dropped into a hole drilled into the top of the weights. The holes are about 1/8" diameter or less, and about 3/8" deep.

The loops are held firmly into the holes with the addition of a taper pin. The taper pin is chosen for a tight interference fit, and it is trimmed so that it won't be too long, and it can be driven down into the hole. The shiny end of the pin can then be darkened with gun blue.

Here are the results.

Note: The two mismatched weights were paired with two other matching weights in my spare parts. You can see one weight with an original loop, and the one with the repair.





Here is what the new loops look like before they are installed: